The Gist of Girona

Resting peacefully an hour and a half north of Barcelona is the Catalonian city of Girona. Today, Girona is well known for being the home of many Game of Thrones scenes, but coming from someone who’s never indulged, there’s still plenty of charm and character to enjoy without understanding the context of the show. When traveling to Girona by bus or car, you inevitably find yourself driving down the middle of a valley, tracing the same path the Romans created 2,000 years ago. The highest points of the surrounding mountains are home to watch castles, giving the Romans the ability to hold power from higher ground. The forest land surrounding the castles is cleared, leaving attackers vulnerable and unable to hide. The Roman influence continues to run through the valley into the heart of Girona.

Girona is surrounded by 4 rivers, the Ter, Onyar, Güell, and Galligants, all of which are pictured on Girona’s flag. Historically, the rivers have been advantageous for defense forces. After crossing the Onyar river, you step foot into the time portal of Girona. Immediately to the left stands the sculpture of a Lioness on a Doric column, most well known to tourists and distinguished guests for the symbol kiss you are supposed to give to its behind to show respect to the city. Due to COVID, the ass of Girona is off-limits.

Further down the tight and winding streets stand various parts of the town including the historic Roman quarters, the distinct Jewish quarter, and the main Ramblas. The cathedral displays a combination of Romanesque, baroque, and ornate outer architecture marked by the geometric and natural capitals on columns and Leonard arches. These styles are alongside contrasting Gothic styles seen in the gargoyles and flying buttresses.

In addition to Roman influence, the brief period of Arab rule in Catalunya left its mark on Girona. The Arabs were only in Catalunya for a fraction of the total 760 years they spent ruling parts of Spain. The length of rule generally correlated to the proximity of the region to Africa, hence why such a northern town as Girona experienced brief Islamic influence of around 70 years. The Arab baths in Girona were built long after the Arabs occupied the area, but are another cultural site and museum to check out.

The last prominent population to influence Girona and Catalunya were the Jews. The Catalonian Kings treated Jewish people as their own “property” creating a different sector of society for them to exist. The Jewish populations mainly lent money or were scholars, doctors, and craftsmen. However, by the nature of being “different,” the Dominicans stirred up lies and drama about the Jewish populations. In 1391 the Dominicans blamed the Black Plague outbreak on the Jewish because they were generally infected and dying in lesser proportions. In reality, this occurred because they had cleaner practices and rituals than Christians. A series of attacks were launched on the Jewish people shortly after. This tragedy provided insight into the power of influence, politics, and religious culture in Cataluyna.

Although brief, I enjoyed Girona for its stunning streets and tranquil nature. I will always remember managing to communicate more than proficiently with a local shopkeeper and a former resident of Barcelona. She explained the draw of the quiet countryside for those overwhelmed by the constant city life Of Barcelona. I have been reflecting on the drawl to calming lifestyle a lot since coming from a quiet part of California, which surely prepared me for a frontal shock when moving to Barcelona despite how comfortable, clean, and manageable it is. In the future, I hope to return to Girona to see more with a longer stay and more relaxed schedule, but I can’t complain about what I did get the chance to see!

Next, Tossa de Mar, another quaint beach town along the Costa Brava.

¡Hasta pronto!